Ocracoke Island

As noted, my family and I have stayed up and down the Outer Banks coastline from Corolla to Ocracoke. We rent Sunday to Sunday, with one week over a holiday weekend, so this leaves a few extra days to experience different parts of the OBX. This year, we spent those in Corolla, and I loved it. However, for the past three years, we started our trip with a few days on Ocracoke Island. My wife Lisa had wanted to visit Ocracoke on a couple of trips prior to the first time we tried it, but I had resisted, using the argument that driving the nearly two hours it may take from KDH to the Hatteras Ferry, and the one to two hour Ferry wait, then ditto back home was a poor use of our vacation time to visit the island for a few hours. Our compromise became making Ocracoke the prevacation vacation if you will! After spending a few days each of the past three years there, I have become a fan of the island, BUT remain less than enthusiastic about getting there. It usually takes 9 hours for us to get from our door in Pittsburgh PA until the time we cross the Wright Memorial Bridge into Kitty Hawk. To me, we have arrived on vacation! The thought of the two hour drive from there to Hatteras, THEN the wait for the ferry, which can easily add another two hours, is a daunting thought. Once I am on the ferry, it seems like a GREAT idea, but I have usually invented several new curse words, or curse word combinations long before that time arrives! That said, at some point I think every fan of the OBX needs to invest a few days on Ocracoke Island, as all of the above does seem to limit the number of people there, which does have its own benefits. Also, do not listen to those who say there is nothing to do there. First off, if you are coming to the OBX, you have to be a lover of the beach and or good food and drink, and Ocracoke can take care of both of those loves. First off, the beach. After many years of rising in the rankings, in 2007 the beach at Ocracoke made it to the title of #1 beach in America according to Dr. Beach. The beach on Ocracoke is a large beautiful beach, that as an added bonus is guarded from Memorial Day through Labor Day. It also has a great changing and showering area. If you are a beach lover, there is not a more scenic view anywhere on the OBX, and if you like water, you can stay busy body surfing, surfing, skim boarding or surf fishing. Our first year there, we thought that this was all there was to do. But over the next two years, we realized that there was PLENTY to do on Ocracoke even beyond the beach. I will be brief, as this blog is supposed to be about eating on the Outer Banks, but hey, you need to find things to do to work up an appetite right? Outside of the beach activities noted, here are some of the things we have done or thought of doing while on Ocracoke:

Offhsore fishing charter out of Anchorage Marina;
Schooner Ride on the Windfall II;
Kayak Tours;
Surf and Kiteboard lessons;
Portsmouth Island ATV and shelling trip;
Parasailing or Waverunning at Silver Lake;
Horseback riding on the beach;
Ghost Tour-great history of the island and more than a little eerie;
Bike riding-You can pretty much get anywhere on the island on a bike;
And finally, the surprise gem for us. On our last day on Ocracoke last year, the kids were a little burnt from the sun, and we had two weeks ahead of us, so we looked for something to do out of the sun. We rented a golf cart for the day at the little supermarket on Irvin Garrish Highway, and man what a fun day. We completely explored the island, and there was far more to it than the activity around Silver Lake. We discovered great little rental homes, tons of little stores selling jewelry, candy, and many nautical treasures I bought for my bar at home. We pretty much made a day of really exploring Ocracoke on this golf cart, and my wife and kids had a GREAT TIME!! Okay, now to the food. I will do a brief summary on the places we ate that left an impression on us while on Ocracoke.

Howard's Pub-The first place you see as you get to the main part of the island, and you really do need to stop here. It is kind of THE place to be. When you walk in, you definitely feel like you are at a beach bar, and my favorite fact is that Howards has nearly 200 beers available and 24 on tap, including favorites of mine such as Widmer Brothers Hefeweizen, Boddingtons Ale, Bell's Oberon, Guinness Stout, and Harps Lager. Howards also has a great raw bar, including many combo platters, great burgers, and hush puppies. My favorite two items include the fried oyster platter and the crab cake. It is a great place to catch a spectacular Ocracoke sunset with a cold beer.

Jolly Roger-This place is right next to the marina on Irvin Garrish Highway. It overlooks the marina and waterfront, making it a great place to hang out and eat. Some highlights for me at the Jolly Roger include great sweet potato fries, a tremendous oyster po boy sandwich, fried clam strips, burgers, and actually fajitas! Another place that may not look like much, but the waterfront location and solid bar food make it a memorable stop.

Flying Melon-We have only eaten breakfast here, but thanks always for introducing me to sweeet potato pancakes! Great way to start the day.

Dajio-Kind of a neat place with an indoor and outdoor eating option. We were not overwhelmed by our dinner the night we ate there, but we did love their breakfast. Breakfast was highlighted by a sweet potato biscuit and jam, creme brulee french toast, and caramalized apple pancakes. They also had a great selection of omelettes.

Thai Moon-If you are in the mood for some great takeout, and like Thai food, this is your place. Excellent Pad Thai, egg rolls, spring rolls, and many other spicy dishes.

The Back Porch-Although every place on the island makes you feel comfortable in casual wear, the Back Porch is a bit more of an upscale restaurant with an impressive wine list, and more sophisticated entrees. For me the Poke (sushi grade tuna in a sesame/ginger sauce) was a great appetizer, and their ribeye steak was done perfectly and served with fresh local vegetables. Other highlights included the crab cake, along with several scallop dishes. The also have a Back Porch Lunch Box on the Irvin Garrish Highway, a great place to stop and load your cooler with fresh sandwiches on your way to the beach.

The Slushy Stand-the focal point of the family groups, you can get great ice cream, coffee drinks, and fresh squeezed slushy drinks before or after you rent your bikes!

So, despite the fact that Ocracoke is a true getaway, without all of the go-carts, boardwalks, and night life of some other areas, you can see that there is plenty to do and eat here. The fact that you can only get here by private flight, private boat, or the ferry keeps this a nice little hideaway. Finally, for us anyway, on the way back up from Ocracoke Island to KDH, we leave early enough to get the first ferry to Hatteras and avoid the long lines. But we also get to enjoy a little gem in Buxton called the Orange Blossom bakery. Get there before 10:30 or you will likely miss out on their signature Apple Uglies. They are a fried apple turnover on steroids that you have to try to believe. Get the chocolate covered ones when available for sensory overload. If you are health conscious get the baked version, it is only 1000 calories instead of 2000! Other highlights include their home made donut holes, Dunkin donuts they ain't. Finally, their homemade biscuits are wonderful as are the number of breakfast sandwiches they put on them. If you are hungry, brave, and very heart healthy, how about trying the Buxton that adds 3 pieces of sausage, 6 pieces of bacon, 3 eggs, tomato and mayo to a large homemade biscuit. If you are going to check out, what a way to go. This place makes the trip BACK from Ocracoke to KDH a gut busting, but worthwhile journey!